High-Tech Nitrous

C5/C6 Nitrous Bottle Mount with NANO

This install is based up on a '01 Z06 running a forged 416ci 500hp N/A monster. The owner, Aaron Case, was gracious enough to allow us to take our time on this install, and record the process. Thanks Aaron for never sweating us once on the time factors. In addition, some of the C5 Nitrous install "Write-Up" and "How-To" will be using pictures from this "Sudden Impact" dry-plate kit install.

The bottles still need a polish job and some cleaning up. Everyone whom has seen it say "Wow, very nice", so we hope it turned out OK. Seems nicer looking in person, at least to some? You can't really see the polished fittings and black bottle paint complimenting each other, at least in the pictures. Maybe it's because it's below freezing out here and everything is getting a little dew like film, LOL...

The goal here is to have a nice, safe, easy to remove nitrous bottle with NANO. We also wanted a system that would generate positive comments IE: clean trick set-up. A person can simply pull the quick disconnection pins, along with dropping the main nitrous feed line, and it's out in one single unit. It just doesn't get any easier. One thing you could do is to add the main line wing nut, and then you won't even need to grab a wrench. The owner chose to go with the very trick HSW Billet Bottle bracket that is anodized, and soon the RNS personal set-up will be similar.

Quick Links

Getting Started

Because you/we are doing a nitrous installation, the installers trim is most likely already removed, this would be due to the nitrous line running through the interior. We will need to be able to fold the carpet back, for layout, so remove any remaining interior trim at this time.

Because the fiberglass is so thin, for weight savings in this area, and the fact that we can't get to the bottom for through bolting, we must make a platform to hold bottle(s). This must be robust enough as to not come loose with multiple bottles attached. We have used 3/8" plywood numerous times (Marine Grade) and it works wonders, and easy on the cost also (compared to sheet-metal/stamped steel). The standard measurements for going up to a dual bottle install are 13" x 17". Take and round the corners off and bull nose the edges for best looks later when carpet goes back down. At this point, always put the platform and bottle in place in the car and mark where the bracket base should be mounted. At this point, note the FWD facing point and mark. You can see how far forward to mount bottle by giving the main line a little clearance (it can be touching the carpet), but watch for hitting the window trim aft on the Z06 only. Careful locating will allow even dual 15lb bottles to be mounted using this procedure, even on the Z06 (dual mount pictures in the NANO section, bottom of page).

You can see, in the picture, where at this time we marked the outside edge where the hold down screws should go on top of the floorboard ribs. Three per side and one top and bottom. These can be standard #6 wood screws, or what ever you have handy. The screws are only used for holding the plywood in place while the "Gorilla" glue is drying, and do not really play much of a role in the structural integrity.

Next, you can see one of the threaded "Maracashi" (correct spelling unknown) inserts, being installed, in the picture below. These allow the actual billet bottle bracket to be installed/removed from and through the carpet. Some fore-go this step and just use screws in to the plywood, your choice. To install the inserts, you just drill a slightly smaller hole and insert, then drive in with a screwdriver. These inserts support 3/8" NC threads and SS hex head bolts. The bolts were polished on a shop buffer.

Setting Up the Bottle

Now that we have a platform to work from, we can mount the base to the plywood. What we did prior to this was polish the SS parts. A simple bench grinder from Harbor Freight with the correct wheels was used for polishing. This attention to detail is what will get your install noticed and remembered, where as the next guys install is forgotten the minute someone walks away.

We now want to start fitting the NANO bottle after we mount and secure the base and main bottle with the HSW Billet Bottle Bracket. Take you time lining the bottle up in the bracket for the best looks. Clamp or screw the platform to the bench so it doesn't move around while drilling and adding fittings.

Mounting the NANO Bottle

We are now going to use the stock NANO mounts with the HSW custom Billet Bottle bracket. First, we want to locate the NANO brackets. What we have to watch for is the hex head Allen screws in the HSW bracket where the two halves join, together. IIRC, the top screw for the NANO mount needs to be 1/2" below the center break because we are going to be drilling into the HSW bottle bracket.

Next, drill out the clamp rivets on the NANO mounts so they can be positioned, later out of sight. Then both mounts face towards the center as shown. Pre drill clearance holes in the NANO mounts for 8-32 machine screws. Now these same holes will be the template for marking the HSW Billet bracket for drilling. Don't drill all the way through the HSW bracket, but close. Be careful when tapping these holes out for 8-32 threads. Trust that you don't want to break the tap, use some oil.

Now we can do a test fit. Then take the NANO bottle back off and paint the bracket so it will blend in with the rest of the mount. As you can see it blends nicely, and the clamps, after polishing, have been rotated out of site for a clean uncluttered look, think details.

Here are the mounts after being brushed with enamel paint, yes frugal at best. Of course, we did not paint the polished SS machine screws. Blending right in, the NANO mounts. There is some great 10-min paint from Krylon, but we were out and it was like 10:00 PM...

Bottle Plumbing and Fittings

The next step, we want to mount the gauge so we can actually see it. The only company that puts their gauges on top is NOS (we do not know why). However, we want to see the gauge from outside the car looking in. Here's a basic of what we need and all the fittings are polished stainless steel. Start with the right fitting first (picture below) the 1/8th inch male pipe x male 4an; next is a flow through manifold or gauge adapter in a 4an size, the HSW gauge with 1/8" male pipe threads screws into the top; the 90° fitting is dropped and not used; the last double fitting is your NANO check valve in male 6an x male 1/8" pipe. What follows, is to cut the male 4an end off of the gauge manifold, drill it out for a 1/8" pipe tap, and tap it out. Be careful and use oil, but clean up good after wards to ensure a good seal with the Teflon paste. The assembled fittings can be seen in the following pictures. Implementing this idea into the install will go a long way towards seeing the actual bottle pressure, especially from the rear glass outside the vehicle.

Here is the normal gauge lay out, but just not optimal for the Vette. We can't see it all from above, or from the drivers side.

Here we can see how it all comes together. Use some Telflon paste on all of the pipe threads. Normaly I like to use blue LockTight, but here we need to make small adjustments to get everything lined up just right and LockTight seals instantly, think details, so the paste will allow moving of the fittings. The HSW 6an SS bottle nut that comes in the N2O filter kit, and some of the base kits, can be seen here, and it was polished also.

Another couple views after it's assembled. Make sure you get your NANO bottle and it's gauge nice and square with the main HSW Bottle, because, yes again details. Notice the blue fitting, this is a blow off diffuser. If you have a bulkhead that separates the passenger compartment from the trunk, this is all that is required to be NHRA legal. We only need to vent outboard when bottle is mounted in the passenger area.

Mounting in Car

Now it's time to mount the platform in to the car. From the earlier lay out, we should have some marks on the deck for placement. Lay down a nice bead of Gorilla Glue on each rib. Pre drill your hold down screw holes at this time, and it doesn't have to be a very big hole and only hand tighten as we don't want these stripped out. What is done next is to trim the felt backing around the plywood, then when carpet is flipped down it fits like a glove.

Next, we want to take note of where our HSW billet base bolt-holes are. Then, just measure them all from a fixed point near the speakers and write this down. After that, flip the carpet down and lay some tape in the approximate area of the bolt-holes. Then transfer your measurements to the tape. Now we can take an ice pick and locate the base mount holes. After one is located, use golf Tees to keep things centered and then the remaining three holes. Next, use a piece of SS tubing that is sharpened around the end for a home made hole punch and make some small holes for the bolts to pass through. Keep them small or just make an X with a knife so later it will still look good should you take the bottle out. When you go to drop the mount down let a couple bolts hang down for alignment.

Now mount the base down with your SS hex head bolts, using some poly-washers to keep from scratching the nice HSW anodize job.

Now install the main N2O/NANO assembly by inserting your two polished pins. What we did was replace the bare steel rings on the pins with some standard key rings that were SS, another of those detail things. Now we are ready to do the NHRA blow down kit.

Installing NHRA Blow Down Kit

Last step is to locate the NHRA blow down tube. At this time, you could chose to go with a braided remote hose and bulkhead fitting. You can see how this was done in the pictorial in the Bottle install section.

First what we need to do is locate where we are going to drill our hole. This style blow down just protrudes through the deck to the atmosphere. You will have to take your time and measure twice to make sure you get the hole through the deck in the correct place. If it ends up a little big, no worry as the carpet will be covering all when done. If you measure off the carpet backward, it will be approx. 1 ¼" and if going from the bare bulkhead back it will approx. 2". Again, take your time and measure twice or more. What you will hit below the deck is a cross over I-beam type support. We are not trying to drill through this, just the deck. Then trim the tube a little at a time and check it for fitting at the nut, then you will quickly see how much needs to come off in length. Tighten the nut, walk around looking at tube, and adjust for straightness as required. Job done congratulations.

Here a couple optional methods. The tube style looks fine, however, some like the braided better, and probably the method we will stick with. Sometime in the future, we plan to offer a universal braided kit with the option of fittings you want, IE: SS, black, polished nickel and so on.

This one comes straight out the top then loops back to the spare tire well. A few P-Clamps and it's a simple install. There is a small drain hole that can be reamed out for the bulkhead fitting.

This one uses a 90° fitting and loops down the opposite side. If we go this route, we could add a couple trick clamps mounted (drilled and tapped) directly on to the HSW Billet Bracket for an ultra trick look.

Here is where the lines will go. For a single bottle system there will be no need for a "T" fitting, just the bulkhead connector. In the bottom of the tire well is a very small drain hole and we use that for the pilot hole. This picture is the set-up used on the RNS Z06 with dual 15lb bottles.