High-Tech Nitrous

This install series is based upon the Sudden Impact Dry plate kit packages in single and dual stage, along with the Wet package deals single and dual stage. I don't have any fancy names yet, lol, so we just call them Roberts Single Stage Dry kit or dual stage kit in packaged deal form. These package deals are C5/C6 specific and you will see the products and proceedures specific to these platforms. Completeness is the goal here, why piece all of it together when we can offer an all in one kit, for a much better price than piece meal. 

I get asked so many install questions that I figured why not put together a group of facts and insights. It would be impossible to do this for every single kit available for the C5/C6 platforms, so we are going to cover the areas that touch all installs, and specifically the RNS/HSW single and dual stage plate kits. My deepest focus will be directed towards the wiring. Wiring is by far the most difficult part of the nitrous experiance. Even us guys that have been doing this for 25/30 years can easily get lost when it comes to wiring. I still must go to the electrical engineers from time to time. Some multi-stage systems can get so very complicated concerning the wiring diagrams, trust me on this one, lol. I am working very hard, with the help of many, to establish correct wiring diagrams for most of the main line combonations of electronics IE: window switches, fueling and timing controllers and so on. No wiring schematic will be released until it has been OK'ed by the engineers.

Even though this write-up is primarly using the C5 for pictures, the information is still relevant to the C6 as well as all late model GM EFI cars/trucks. I am lacking in the C6 picture department, so please, if you have any C6 install pictures that would help, send them on over. Of course like all my information you will get credit for your submissions. Also, any additional information pertaining to the C6, and/or C5, please share it with us as we want this as complete and correct as possible.

Here's nice clean C6 engine bay that was done by Ratt g from the Corvetteforum. The car is a '08 C6 Z06 and is running a HSW plate kit. This is such a great example of what can be done with time and patience. Someone walking up would be hard pressed to know that it was running nitrous. The second picture is another single stage dry kit on a C5 and owner is Aaron Case.

Really if you have a nice basic set of hand tools and the common power tools a home install is very easy to do and very satisfing. 

Basic electrians tools needed and general electrical information for all installs will be in this and the next section. This is probably the hardest part of the install, wiring.

We will be using these Mini Add a Fuse kits in a couple areas. Any auto parts store will have them for a couple bucks. Get some extra rolls of wire in various colors and gauges, as you will need them.

Make sure to cover the car well, and not only the fenders, as the trunk lid seems to become a catch all for many of us.  

Wiring up our systems can be the biggest pain in the arz. Even the long time mechanics can get in to trouble in this area. So, I will probably focus more on this part of the job than any other. I have many pictures concering wiring. Here are some examples, below. We have numerous wiring diagrams and a lot of info in the Wiring Diagrams section. There is info on tach pic-up locations, TPS locations and so on. Currently I am putting together, with some help, specific wiring diagrams for all of the popular combos of window switches and the Interface, like the MSD, Trick, Microedge, NOS controllers and so on.

Grounds

Power and Ground for Switch Panels

Here is a unmolested access wire bundle as it looks from GM. They use duck tape and there is a ground, a constant 12v and a switched 12v. We are using the sw 12v and the ground.

MicroEdge Power Pick-Up

Battery Tray Area Wiring

LapTop Power  

Interface Wiring Loom 

Tach Pick-UP wire 

 Here we are using the "Odd Wire Out" method of tach pick-up. What this means is, each coil pack has 4-wires, and three of each is the same color. then we have an odd single wire color on each coil pack and that is the wire we want to tap. it does not matter which coil you use, I chose the one that is easiest to tap. Remember to set your MicroEdge tach pick-up to single coil style.

Hear we can see two coil connectors unplugged for comparison and each has a black, brown and pink as the common colors. The second coil back that I chose has a second wire that is green and that is the odd wire out. I have used this style of wire tap for years with out issue, just make sure you get the correct size for the wire, or it may not make good connection.

Hear we are just ensuring a good connection with a ohm meter, which i use for a coninuity test. Then I wrap some tape around the connector and use Dielectric grease to seal up each end to keep moisture out. Then loop the wire bup to the convoluted tubbing that is holding the solenoid wiring and run it down to your battery area where all the wire connections for the Interface and microedge are being done. Optional tach pick-up is the PCM under the battery tray ans this methos can be seen in the main wiring section.

TPS Wire Pick-Up

For the C5 we are looking for the Dark Blue wire going to the TPS, and the C6 is a Purple wire. We can pick this up under the coil cover for a cleaner look and is the loom running down towards the TB. This one used a pink colored wire tap because the wire is smaller. Again we used the solenoid convoluted tube for routing the wire down to the battery area. Then a a piece of convoluted tube covers it all up for a finished look and once the coil cover goes on, you won't see anything.

C5/C6 WOT Micro SW Mounts

For those using a WOT SW here is what the mounts look like under the throttle pedal. In the wiring section we have a complete LSx platform of pictures for this mounting. Top picture is the C5 and bottom is the C6.

Here we are going to be installing the new HSW C5 switch panel. I have a beta version here, no no Logos or labeling. There are some very specific steps involved with the sw panel that can help make this part of the nitrous experiance much less stressfull.

First we must get the center console removed. I won't go in to that as most will know how this is done already. Now the first thing we must do is to trim the rear area of the ash tray opening once the ash tray is popped out. Note the besel screw behind the ashtray inself, along with the screw behind the door and next to the lighter. Depending on how we mount the sw panel will determine if the behind the ashtray screw will be used.

Here looking at the back side, you can see the triming that has been done and allowed the screw to be used. The side with the pocket is where the bulk of your wiring will be running. Remember to round off all the corners with a file. I used small hole saws to get the proceedure started, then used a hack saw blade to remove remantants.

Here is the bulk of the wiring go to the pocket in the ash tray area. what we are trying to do here is make the sw panel totally removable is needed and the the use of quick disconnects. also we leave a little length on the wiring so the panel can be pulled away from the console for adding wires/products later. More on choosing sw panel removal by itself, or with console later.

Here it is test fitted. What I found with the switches I am using (not the same as what HSW will supply, IIRC) was that I needed to trim some of the plastic built in washer from the sw nut. this allowed it to lay flate and fit was great. The thing here is to take your time and make sure none of the wires or terminals are holding the panel up or away. Many things can hang up and make fit undesireable.

This was prior to any triming and you can see how tight the wiring is, and thus the reason for opening it up, top and bottom. You could leave it this way, but removal for service would be difficult at best.

In this picture note the very small Allen Head machine screws that come from HSW with the sw panel. If you thru bolt as they designed, you will not use the screw behind the sw panel, but count on the screw next to the lighter for securing. Myself, I chose to open up the side with two holes and counter sink them for #4 wood/sheet metal square head screws. Then the side with the single hole, because it was so close to the edge, I couldn't open it up. So I used one Allen head screw supplied and drilled the console with a small 1/16th pilot hole and screwed the Allen head in as a self taper. I wanted to do this because installing many, many of similar sw panels, i know for a fact that we will be removing it every now and again and it;s much easier to just remove the panel rather than the entire proceedure of removing the center console. It's your choice and both methods will work.

Here is the installed remove the sw panel style of mounting screws. Fit is very nice and tight. Again, this is a beta version of the sw panel and the one that goes to market will look nicer I am sure with the labeling and logos.

With the ashtray door closed you would never know it's anything but stock.

Here is the first installed in the car HSW sw panel. Looks great IMO. Of course we did some additional small lights as per the customer for indicating this and that.

This is the route for your sw panel wiring as well as the Microedge wiring, along the pass foot well. It's easist to pull the carpet down so we can see what is going on and where we want the wiring. The next picture is the accessory wires that GM leaves for us to use (has the wires grouped with black tape), sometimes we have to dig around for it. One is a ground, black, one is 12v always on orange and the yellow one is switched 12v and the one we want for our sw panel power. That way, if you leave something on the car will kill it thru the ignition switch. The third picture is all of the wiring pulled into the sw panel area. Make sure you add a couple extra wires for later mods, trust me, it's much easier to add then now and we can get them later by pulling the sw panel out.

Just a picture of where the sheet metal screws come out. if you go this route, make sure to take time on your counter sinking as it will help make the screws dissapear.

A couple pictures with different combos of switches. Also, make sure you check out the Installs Pictorial as there are many great pictures of different sw panels and insight and ideas are many.

For the most part this section will be for pictures of what the end users have come up with so far. The creative juices can flow here just as well as the other known "Trick" items to install (like the solenoid custom mounts, many have their own take on what looks trick).

I am currently putting a accessories package together for the Microedge. it will contain a few items like the mount of your choice and a wiring harness boot for the end of the loom. These items in the near futre will be included in the Package kits, and also seperate fot the do it your selfer that may alreay have there kit and ideas picked out.       

The install of this bracket is really easy. First when we have our center consol out for the sw panel fitting we'll want to drill the cup holder for the Microedge wiring harness. If you fold the wiring over the top of the wiring connector it will fit thru a smaller hole. We want the cleanest look so get the hole just big enough to pass harness thru. The other end of the harness goes up and thru the donut that is behind the battery in engine bay, all of the Mircoedge wiring can be done in the battery area. Then with the bracket we get a base plate to make sure there is a nice flat serface for the bracket to attach to. Clean the cup holder area and remove the tape back ing and stick in to cup holder. Then attach bracket with the suction cup mount/base.

Here is the Microedge as it comes with the wiring showing. Most don't mind this at all. Myself, I found a boot that works wonders on detailing this area. The second picture is with the boot installed.

Make sure you fit and install the boot before you run the Microedge harness. Other wise you will have to slit the end a bit to fit over the connector. It's a tough fit getting the boot over the connector, but using some heat can help, not much or you will rip it though. Then add a section to fill the void in the covoluted tube. Again, taking your time will allow a very pro install. the route and style of securing the harness after this is up to you as there are many ways to do it. here's the finished product. This was the first attempt, and it worked out nicely in the end as the above picture shows.

Here is the optional mount and will also be offered, customer's choice on which mount to use. The mount clips on to the vent louvers. It is centered here, but can be moved around to suite the end user. The wiring harness could go back thru the vent if wanted, or it can be simply ran down and along the pass foot well. The options are numeous as you can see in the 2nd picture there is another way to use this style bracket. It's a flat bas that can be screwed on or an be used with double sided tape that comes with it and/or the clip.

Some additional pictures for insight and/or ideas.

Here will will being doing the Interface install with ideas on where and how to mount.

Many feel that the main nitrous feed line is the most difficult, not really. Once you know your way around the Vette after the trim is pulled you will see that it's actually very simple but does take some time no doubt.

first step is to remove the trim pieces for access. all of the trim pieces are hel on with push lock plastic connectors. Just pull up on each piece to locate the connection. Sometimes it takes a small trim style pry bar. take your time and think about the piece your working on and it will come off with no damage. a total of about 6 or 7 pieces need to be removed. I always remove the passenger seat for the line install as it willmake it much easier, and it will also help when you go to do your wiring, trust me on this one, take the seat out.

Here is the rubber donut that we will be pulling the main line thru. Once the battery is removed you can see it towards the rear and down low. In this picture I have my wire pull snake poked thru. then we simply tape the line on to the snake and pull thru.

next  we go under the passenger dash and pull the line thru. you can see it here running down towards the door sill and coming out of the donut.

Then we run the line along the door sill behind the carpet and loop around the seat belt base. if you look closely, there is a fold over wire harness hold tab, install the line in to this and bend tabs around line. The rest of the line can stay lose behind the carpet and will cause no problems. going up the back of the bulk head you will see another one of these fold over clamps behind the carpet, use it also. If you feel the need you can put convoluted tubing over the run for protection.

Now loop the line up and over the bulk head, and you can another one of the clamps to use. This is the area to run the extra length. Just push it up along the speaker as shown and the lose carpet and trim will cover it nicely. the reason the line is 16' long is for the guys mounting the bottle in the spare tire well. If your really worried about the extra length you can shorten the hose and put a new end on before installing, the lenght you want for the center forward mount is, about 14'. I would just leave it long.

next varify that you have the length you want for your selected solenoid mount. this install was a single dry plate and the noid is mounted center of the passenger valve cover. the first picture shows the route behind the battery going to the motor under the coil cover. use convaluted covering in this area, we don't want the braid acting like a file on aluminum. The second picture you can see the standard location for the single stage dry plate kit solenoid. the blue fitting is the line coming from behind the battery to under the coil covers.

Now before buttoning up the line install, make sure you have the correct length to get to your bottle(s). In the first picture below, because it was a special one off dual bottle install, it worked best to cut a slit and have the line come thru the carpet aft a few inches. Most will be like the second picture and just come stright from the speaker area where you stashed the extra line. Depending on if you run a filter, you can tuck the line in the carpet crack for a hidden look. Now just go back and reinstall all of the trim pieces. One thing to mention, if you think you may have any electronics going in the rear somewhere, now is a good time to run extra wire and stash it under the carpet in the back.

Some ideas on locating items. In the "Install Pictorial" we can find dedicated sections for bottle mounts, solenoid mounts and more. In the electrical section is switch panels and misc elctrical product pictures for ideas and insight. The NANO section contains NANO bottle installs and many good ideas. So, looking around the site will give you many ideas for many of your products.

The Interface, due to the short interface plug/play connector at the MAF, limits our locations for mounting. There is an extension cable fix in the works that may allow future mounting in the glove box if you wish. Don't extend your cable as this will void the warranty. the volages being sent are very touchy and we don't want to skew a signal. here's spot I found just aft of the head light bucket. Most are mounting them right on the radiator shroud and that works fine. the second picture is a KCJeff shroud install.

 The MicroEdge offers much more freedom. The wiring and cable can be run into the engine bay via the rubber boot under the battery. This still allows enough length to mount unit in the glove box or the console glove box. The last one I did, it is set up with Velcro to mount on my LM1 windshield mount, or go into the glove box and both recieve the Vecro treatment. The second picture is evilBeef54's (F-Body) install and he chose the glove box for the Microedge and his LM2. the third picture is a Generic window switch in the glove box and not sure where it cam from, but gives insight none the less. If you do a glove box install, leave your cable long so you can use it as a hand held when making changes.

 The wiring and relays for the most part are normally mounted in the battery tray area. we can also mount window switches here also. the first picture is an older install I did with dual window switches and 7-relays. The next picture is Beer's take on mounting his electrical in this area.

We have many options for mounting the solenoids. Here is a link from the "Nitrous Installs" Pictorial, and should give many ideas for how you may want to mount your noids.   Solenoid Pictorial

The single stage dry will be covered in full here and it's a very nice hidden look. first lets decide if want to go with the very popular black out look. We can do this three ways, 1st is to special order your lines and fittings as black;  2nd (pic below)is to home brew black anodizing for fittings and use shrink tube for the lines; 3rd (pic below). In person, IMO, the convuluted tubing looks better? Your choice and we can even stay with the proven SS braided line and just black the nut out. here's how to do home anodizing, the poor mans version. We clean the fitting with Acetone, then slightly warm with the heat gun and modestly keep applying heat, and as we do this color it out with your permanent black Sharpie, two coats and no one will ever know the difference. The flair nuts below have been done this way.

The single stage main solenoid and purge solenoid can go under the passenger side coil cover. It's a tight fit but in the end it fits like a glove. This shot is looking directly down.Here We can see the solenoid mount bolted to the intake. this is the most important step in getting things to fit here. I used a bevel square to get the proper angles to bend the mount correctly. take your time and understand why your bending what which way an dyou'll do fine. You can also see the "t" fitting out of the bottom of the 3-port large solenoid and it must be angled like shown to get both lines to fit with out rubbing. Make sure you use Teflon paste on the pipe threads as you will need to adjust the "T" one way or the other a couple times and it will still seal. The line going left is the main feed line coming in from around the back of the valve cover. the purge noid is threaded directly in to the main noid. This view is from the passenger side leaning over the valve cover.

Looking from the drivers side. Note that the bracket is bent onan angle, we need this in order to not rub on anything.

We want to pre-wire the solenoids and get the fittings in while on the bench as this makes things much easier. Normally I use weather pack connectors, however, this was a frugal install and the quick disconnect wiring connectors used here are fine. I use the male end on the purge solenoid and the female ends on the main n2o solenoid. this way you will never get the two mixed up and it does matter. the main solenoid uses l;arger wire and a bigger fuse because it has a larger amp draw compared to the purge noid.

Here we have the pre-wiring tied up  and routed around the back of the valve cover. The main feed follows the route also.

Here is this exact install with cover on. Looks very clean with everything hidden. it's actually really easy to do, it just takes some time and effort to get it right. Absolutely no rubbing, binding, bulging or ill fitting, just like stock.

Depending on what after market CAI has been installed, we may need to do some changes or modifications to get the system plumbed correctly once the plate is installed.

Much more information in the wiring section. 

InterFace and FJO WS

By Mike Monaco 

Full Size-InterFace and FJO-Click Here

InterFace and MSD WS

 By 1996z28

Full Size-InterFace and MSD-Click Here