High-Tech Nitrous

These wiring diagrams are for reference only. We will not and can not take responsibility for any use or misuse of said wiring diagrams. You are solely responsible for getting your wiring installed by a professional. Scroll through the entire page as there are many different wiring schematics, covering many different subjects. Also, in the C5/C6 Install section there will be dedicated wiring diagrams for the different combos of InterFace and Window Switches.

Click Links Below-Direct Connect

• InterFace and MicroEdge Wire Diagrams
• Corvette C5/C6/Z06 Wiring Diagrams
• In-Line Fuel Pump Wiring
• Resistor Trick-Timing Pull
• Roberts 1st Gear Lockout Mod
• BMN Dual Stage and 1st Gear Lockout
• Triple Stage Wiring Schematic
• NOS 5177 Converted to Dual Stage
• Alternative Tach Pick-Up Location (all LSx platforms)

Here is a collection of InterFace and MicroEdge wiring Diagrams.

Here is a Dual Stage Wet kit with the MicroEdge, by Jamesz98 at the NitrousFrorum.com. Click the link for a full size version of the wiring diagram : Dual Wet and MicroEdge

 Here is the InterFace and FJO Progressive controller. This diagram comes from Corvetteforum member  Mike Monaco.  Please note: You can progress through the Interface if it was produced after Sept 2008; if older please send to HSW for upgrading. The FJO controlls the pulsing to the solenoid/Interface; and the Interface mimicks the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) and controls the injectors. Your Blue trigger wire will be set as "Ground" in your set-up. Please click the link for full size:  InterFace and FJO Progressive Controllers

Here is the Interface and N.O. Window Switch. Click here for a full size diagram: InterFace and NO WS

The full meal deal, concerning the C5 Corvette. These next two drawings cover most everything, and should be adaptable to any needs. Schematic #1 was drawn by Mr Jones @ Corvetteforum, and 2nd schematic was drawn by Beer @  Vetteforum and NitrousForum. The third schematic was done by jmill98Z @ NitrousForum.

CLICK HERE-Full Size Wiring Schematic

Clink link below for a full size picture of Beer's schematic.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee143/Robert56_bucket/BeersDiagram.jpg?t=1207496918

HSW Dual Stage wet and MicroEdge, Click for a full size image.

http://www.robertsnitrousservice.com/Wiring%20Diagrams/DualwetwithpurgeandMicroEdge%

Finding the Tachometer Output (C5 and Z06) 

The factory tachometer output can be found on the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) found in the passenger tire well. The PCM has two 80 pin connectors, with the one closest to the firewall being called the "Blue" connector by GM. The other connector is called the "Red" connector. These connectors have a plastic hold down that snaps off, be careful.

  Note: the '97/98 PCM use a different colored 80 pin connector, and numbered/colored wire for the tachometer output. These years use the "Blue" connector and pin #35,  and a white wire.

The '99/04 use the "Red" 80 pin connector on the PCM and Pin #10, and a white wire.

These 80 pin connectors (red and blue) are attached to the PCM which can be found beneath the battery tray behind the passenger inner tire well. The inner tire well can be removed easily by removing the screws that hold it in position. 

C6 2007 Corvette

'07 C6 Corvette
Tach trigger wire-RPM signal pin #48 White
(Blue Connector #1 at the pcm inside the right front fender.)

Tach and TPS for '04/05 GTO

04 GTO LS1
TPS wire-at the throttle body BLUE wire. At the computer pin 24 green seal connector 2. blue wire
TACH coil trigger wire-light green passenger side connector, at the computer pin 10 green seal connector 2. brown wire


05 GTO LS2
TPS wire-at the computer pin 31 green for falling black connector. TPS at the throttle body Green wire
Tach coil trigger wire-light green passenger side connector. At the computer pin 48 blue connector 1 Brown wire I believe..

CLICK HERE-Full Size Wiring Schematic

This is the wiring from my fuel system upgrade write up.  Fuel System Upgrades

See the last paragraph for some very insightfull information.

After numerous questions on how to wire the IAT, for the timing pull trick, here is some additional information on the schematic posted above, and below.

For years 1999 and 2000 F-Bodies, and C5s these are the wires your looking at:
On the PCM Red Connector,
#25 Tan wire
IAT Sensor

#57 Purple wire
IAT ground

So for this diagram,

Tan wire would go to "A",
and purple wire would go to "B".

Now I am not sure if these wires changed in latter years, or prior years (but think at least prior years are the same), but a PCM pinout can be had for any year, if ya do your home work. I haven't used this or messed with it for a few years, so...

Anyway, I hope this clarifies some of the wiring for this trick. Oh and a 750 ohm resistor will pull about 3 to 4 degrees of timing.

Here is an updated and added to drawing showing how to add a Potentiometer (POT), a variable resistance device operated by a dial. This redo on the schematic done by ls1tech member SmaknaSS, thanks. With the POT installed, instead of a fixed resistance resistor (and only one timing pull curve), we now can dial in the amount of timing pull desired. Using an Ohm Meter, we can measure the resistance at various points on the POT's dial, then we know what size resistor/resistance pulls what amount of timing, then mark your dial accordingly. Now we have a way to change timing on the fly, depending on size of hit or adding/subtracting a stage

Below: Another schematic variation to the resistor trick for pulling timing.

From Frost and Goldfinger911 @ LS1Tech ( they have pinpointed some of the resistance values, very help full, Robert)

This is copied from ls1tech, a post I did. 

Here is a couple replies from an often asked question about my home made 1st gear lock out on the trans. If this doesn't make sense let me know and I would be glad to clarify. I don't have it drawn up, and also will add a description on the dual stage with home made lock out when I get a chance.

First description.
Just tap into your wire running to the pedal wide open throttle (WOT) micro SW. Remember, wire it opposite (you'll need a 3-prong SW from Radio Shack), meaning when the pedal WOT micro SW in 1st gear is mashed to the floor and making contact or closed, the 1st gear lock out micro SW on your trans is open. Then when you shift out of first gear the pedal micro SW acts as normal because both switches are now closed, or making contact. This is for a single stage set up. Wiring using this method in a dual stage set-up is a little different. Hope this makes sense.
Here is the pic for anyone reading along.
 

Second description worded a little different.
It's a three prong type WOT micro SW from Radio Shack. You can wire it in line with standard WOT SW under the pedal, but it must be backward, and thus three prongs instead of two. Meaning, when in 1st gear it will still break the connection going to pedal WOT SW and as soon as you shift out of 1st then standard WOT SW works as normal. This is for a single stage, and I have mine wired up to keep my 2nd stage out of 1st gear. Hope this makes sense.

The switch itself is tapped into the top of the Hurst shifter base, and it's aluminum. IIRC, we used 8-32 machine screws.

Here's another way to attach your switch, glued directly to the stock boot.Robert

Here's a wiring schematic that I requested from BMN, and the obliged drawing. Notes are my own. thanks BMN.

Click Here: Full Size Schematic

Schematic thanks to wiring guru NXRicky.

Click Here: Full Size Schematic

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee143/Robert56_bucket/5177dualnitrousdiagram.jpg?t=1207503474

The link above is the wiring and plumbing for turning the NOS 5177 dry kit, with redundant solenoids, into a dual stage system running single solenoids. I have personally done this with a couple 5177 kits. The only draw back is loosing the safety of the redundant solenoids. However, even in dual stage mode we could purchase extra Powershot solenoids and make each stage redundant. One thing to caution, the diagram shows using only a RPM activation SW for the 2nd stage, I would not, run a 2nd full WS. The reason is, depending on how the system is wired, the 2nd stage may not shut off if you hit the rev limiter, and it will then pull the fuel via the PCM (no high RPM shut-off should you miss a shift and RPMs skyrocket). Been there done that and have a hole in a LS6 intake to prove the high RPM lean back-fire had happened, lol. Above is a picture of dual stage 5177 with redundant solenoids on both stages that was run on the Z06 early on.