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LSx Platform Vacuum Pump Kits

  Want to stop the blow by from a lose nitrous motor, a turbo(s) set-up, or stop the nasty oil the LSx platform pulls in to the intake? Well, I have the answer for you, and the first dedicated kit for the Corvette and F-Body. Stay tuned, and read on, as I have the 2nd C5 model out on my test Z06, above. These pumps were designed for street applications and work as well at the strip. I chose to upgrade to the Pro Series pump due to a 300hp Dry N2O shot, and having larger than 400ci. See the sizing chart in the Application guide (quick links) if you think you may need a Pro Series Pump for big HP needs. 

The LSX Series kit is for the popular LS1-LS7 Series Chevrolet engine and specifically designed to fit perfectly in C5 and C6 Corvettes, Firebirds, Camaros and the GTO.

LS series Chevrolet engines are well known for a lot of blow by and resultant contamination of the intake charge with oil forced past the rings into the combustion chamber. This kit eliminates the PCV valve, allows the rings to seal more effectively and reduces oil contamination of the intake charge which results in added horsepower. A side benefit of the negative crankcase pressure the vacuum pump creates is that it also helps to eliminate unsightly oil leaks.

The GZ Motorsports LSX kits are available with either the 22cfm VP101A Sportsman or a 30cfm VP103 Pro Series Vacuum Pump. We recommend the sportsman pump kit for naturally aspirated cars and the pro series pump for cars that run a power adder such as nitrous, blower or turbochargers.

The two different styles of Kits below are designed for two separate applications - one for standard belt drive with belt tensioner, and the other for those using a electric water pump which do not use a belt tensioner.

 

LSx "Sportsman" Vacuum Pump Kit

 

LSX Vacuum Pump with Belt Tensioner 

Note: Picture at left does not show the Gilmer Belt. 

This new LSX Kit uses the popular GZMS Sportsman vacuum pump (VP101A) which is bolted to the head on the passenger side with a custom stud bolt and set of spacers. A custom designed brace bracket attached to the vacuum pump and the head. The stock tensioner pulley is replaced by a custom designed billet aluminum pulley that is slightly larger (3.5" dia), 6 rib serpentine with a 14 tooth Gilmer pulley combined to drive the pump. The pump is driven by a 5.4" 46 tooth Gilmer vacuum pump pulley using an included 22.5" long Gilmer belt, which results in a perfect pump speed of 63% engine speed. The inlet from the pump is attached to a custom designed billet replacement oil fill cap (VCB103), which also holds the vacuum control valve that comes with the kit (VCV103). The outlet of the pump goes to a custom designed double baffled aluminum breather tank (BT3) that sits snugly between the frame and the radiator on the passenger side. 5' of #10 Stainless braided hose and (2) #10AN 90's, (2) #10AN straights along with the necessary fittings for the pump and the tank are supplied with the kit for an even more simple installation. Also included are the stud bolt and spacer for the head and the bracket with 10 mm cap screw.

Everything is easily installed on the engine with the only typical modifications being to bend the AC line out of the way of the vacuum pump pulley and sometimes needing to loosen up the radiator reservoir and moving as far outward as possible to avoid the end of the brace bracket. The provided Gilmer belt is the correct length and varies between tight and loose depending on engine temperature. The installed kit makes in excess of 15 or so inches of vacuum without the vacuum control valve, which can be adjusted lower to suit the owner and engine builders desires.

LSXSVPCK110 VP101A Pump LS Series Engine Complete Vacuum Pump Kit for Corvette C5/C6 Gilmer Belt and pulleys. 12lbs  

LSXSVPCK111

VP101A Pump LS Series Engine Complete Vacuum Pump Kit for GTO, Firebird & Camaro Gilmer Belt and pulleys.

If interested contact for pricing.

12lbs

LS6 C5 Corvette Z06LS2 Procharged GTOLS1 F-BodyLS7 C6 Corvette Z06

LSX Vacuum Pump Kits without Belt Tensioner

Comes with V-belts and pulleys for use with cars that have an electric water pump. This model is only used when the serpentine belt tensioner is not utilized. The added crank pulley is an option only when there is clearance to run it and install it.

Note: installation of the crank pulley may require lifting the front of the engine or dropping the rack and pinion to allow access. Also pulley requires at least an inch of clearance in front of the balancer for the V belt pulley.

LSXSVPCK111A

VP101A Pump LS Series Engine - Complete Vacuum Pump Kit for GTO, Firebird & Camaro.

If interested contact for pricing.

14lbs $766.50

Vacuum Pump Application Guide

Vacuum Pump Sizing Issues

Vacuum pumps can be rated by their ability to flow air, the more air a vacuum pump flows the more vacuum it will make on a given engine. A "small" vacuum pump would indicate a less airflow capacity than a "big" vacuum pump. Airflow is measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute), vacuum is measured in "inches of Mercury"

All engines create a certain amount of "blow by" (leakage of compressed fuel and air past the rings into the pan area). The "blow by" airflow created creates pressure in the crankcase, the vacuum pump "sucks" air out of the crankcase with its "negative" airflow. The net difference between the air low being "sucked" out and the airflow being "blown" in by blow by yields vacuum. If the airflow being "sucked" out is less than, or not much more than the air flow being blown in, the vacuum pump is not creating enough "sucked" airflow to eliminate pressure in the crankcase or to create adequate vacuum to not only stop leaks, but to create horsepower.

Typically smaller engines generate less "blow by" and don’t require as "big" of a vacuum pump as large displacement engines. However the addition of low tension ring packages, power adders such as Nitrous Oxide, Alcohol, Blowers or Turbochargers (and the ring and piston types, clearances and modifications that go with those power adders) will increase crankcase pressures requiring either a "larger" pump or to spin a "smaller" pump slightly faster. The following guide is based on our experience of testing vacuum pump airflow rates and typical crankcase pressures found in racing motors.

A "small" vacuum pump, that is making inadequate but almost adequate vacuum on an engine may be made to act like a "larger" vacuum pump by increasing the rotational speed, or RPM, of the pump. Of course maximum engine RPM needs to be considered as well, as vacuum pump RPM should be considered. Although we have vacuum pumps being successfully operated at a maximum RPM of 7000 or so, we highly recommend keeping the vacuum pump RPM below 5000 RPM. Alternatively, a "larger" vacuum pump could be used instead. However, our experience has shown that using a vacuum pump that is to "big" may eliminate horse power gains altogether because of the parasitic horsepower it takes to run the pump. Keep in mind that it takes horsepower to pump air, so one should choose a vacuum pump based on your specific application, bigger isn’t always better.

How much vacuum should you use? You should check with your engine builder as there may be some special issues or firm opinions that they may have. In general GZMS recommends no more than 15" of vacuum in a drag race wet sump application without pressure feeding oil to the wrist pins. In our own in house testing, anything over 12" seemed to offer relatively nominal increases in horsepower (maybe 15% between 10" and 15").

Why limit vacuum? Engine builders appear to believe that the lack of oil to wrist pins caused by removal of too much oil mist from the crankcase causes wrist pin damage. Some engine builders report fluctuations in oil pressure above 12", we have not noticed that on engines we have observed during testing. However in a recent article, it was suggested that the air velocity passing through the block to heads at the oil return locations causes resistance to oil flowing back to the pan, which could indeed reduce oil pressure. An air line from the fuel block off on a Chevrolet to the valve cover helps mitigate this problem as well as possibly helping to balance the vacuum in the crankcase to that in the valve cover.

Why use a Vacuum Control Valve? Naturally to limit the maximum vacuum. Also, it is more advantageous to achieve maximum vacuum early in the power band, so if you wish to do that it makes sense to use a vacuum pump with enough air flow to require the use of a vacuum control valve. If you do not want to install a vacuum control valve use a smaller pump than recommended, check your vacuum and determine if you really need one.

Vacuum Pump Application Guide

427ci and Smaller…

427ci and Smaller, Naturally Aspirated, wet sump

For engines smaller than 427 we recommend our VP101 Sportsman pump driven at 64% of crankshaft speed

427ci and smaller, with Low Tension Rings or Small Power Adder

For engines smaller than 427 that have low tension racing rings or a smaller power adder, like a 150 hp Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP101 Sportsman Pump running at 75% of crankshaft speed.

427ci and smaller, with Low Tension Rings and/or Large Power Adder

For engines smaller than 427 that have low tension racing rings and a large power adder, like a 300 hp and up Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP103 Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

427ci and smaller, Dry Sump Applications

For engines smaller than 427 with a Dry Sump system (which includes a pressure feed of oil to the wrist pins) we advise using our VP101 Sportsman Pump running at 75% of crankshaft speed, or our VP103 Pro Pump running at 64% or slower.

427ci to 522ci

427ci to 522ci, Naturally Aspirated

For engines smaller than 522 we recommend our VP101 Sportsman pump driven at 64% or 75% of crankshaft speed

427ci to 522ci, with Low Tension Rings or Small Power Adder

For engines smaller than 522 that have low tension racing rings or a smaller power adder, like a 150 hp Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP103 Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

427ci to 522ci, with Low Tension Rings and/or Large Power Adder

For engines smaller than 522 that have low tension racing rings and a large power adder, like a 300 hp and up Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

427ci to 522ci, Dry Sump Applications

For engines smaller than 522 with a Dry Sump system (which includes a pressure feed of oil to the wrist pins) we advise using our VP103 Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed or the VP104 Super Pro pump running at 64% crankshaft speed..

522ci to 555ci

522ci to 555ci, Naturally Aspirated

For engines smaller than 555 we recommend our VP103 Pro pump driven at 64% of crankshaft speed

522ci to 555ci, with Low Tension Rings or Small Power Adder

For engines smaller than 555 that have low tension racing rings or a smaller power adder, like a 150 hp Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP103 Pro Pump running at 75% of crankshaft speed.

522ci to 555ci, with Low Tension Rings and/or Large Power Adder

For engines smaller than 555 that have low tension racing rings and a large power adder, like a 300 hp and up Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

522ci to 555ci, Dry Sump Applications

For engines smaller than 555 with a Dry Sump system (which includes a pressure feed of oil to the wrist pins) we advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

555ci and larger

555ci and Larger, Naturally Aspirated

For engines larger than 555 we recommend our VP103 Pro pump driven at 64% of crankshaft speed

555ci and Larger, with Low Tension Rings or Small Power Adder

For engines larger than 555 that have low tension racing rings or a smaller power adder, like a 150 hp Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% crankshaft speed.

555ci and Larger, with Low Tension Rings and/or Large Power Adder

For engines larger than 555 that have low tension racing rings and a large power adder, like a 300 hp and up Nitrous Kit, we advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

555ci and Larger, Dry Sump Applications

For engines larger than 555 with a Dry Sump system we (which includes a pressure feed of oil to the wrist pins) advise using our VP104 Super Pro Pump running at 64% of crankshaft speed.

Vacuum Pump Application Notes

  • Pulley ratio is typically 64% of crankshaft speed, this is generated by using a 3.5" Crankshaft Pulley and a 5.5" Pump Pulley unless noted otherwise.
  • Ring Packages such as low tension rings typically generate an increase in ring blowby requiring a larger, or faster spinning pump
  • Power Adders such as Nitrous Oxide, Superchargers, Turbochargers all increase cylinder pressure generating increased ring blowby requiring a larger or faster spinning pump. The amount of Nitrous you are spraying, or the amount of boost you are generating increases the needs for a larger or faster spinning pump.
  • Large Displacement engines move more air and generate proportionately larger amounts of blowby
  • The use of alcohol, especially in a "rich" condition generally reduces net vacuum and could require a slightly larger pump than a gasoline engine.
  • Vacuum leaks in the crankcase, valve covers, distributor base, timing chain cover, oil dipstick, etc. reduce the amount of vacuum you will generate. You can easily check your engine by pressurizing it with air, be careful though, you don’t need much to find leaks and you could damage gaskets and seals.
  • All engines are different depending on how fresh they are, how much ring end gap is used, cylinder prep and ring design. This is a general guide based on typical engines GZMS has fitted over the years as well as customer reports, some situations may be different, if in doubt email or call our tech support line.

Pump Sizing Chart

Adjust pump size to desired net crankcase vacuum desired. The following chart shows the net vacuum you can expect in a naturally aspirated motor with standard or low tension rings and no vacuum control valve. These values assume the rings are in good shape (leak down is not excessive) and there are no vacuum leaks in the engine. Note that net vacuum measured will tend to increase with RPM unless "blow by" into the crankcase increases enough to reduce the negative net airflow out of the crank case, thus reducing vacuum at higher RPM. It is common to see the vacuum increase to a maximum and then reduce some at max RPM if the vacuum pump is not rated for enough airflow to maintain a net vacuum throughout the RPM range. Of course to achieve a constant net vacuum you need to have a vacuum control valve installed in order to let air into the engine when the maximum desired vacuum level is achieved.

Engine Size

VP101 Pump

VP103 Pump

VP104 Pump

400ci and smaller

15-20"

20"+

20"+

400ci - 468ci

12-16"

14-20"+

16-20"+

468ci – 522ci

10-14"

12-20"+

14-20"+

522ci – 555ci

8-12"

10-17"

15-20"

555ci and larger

6-10"+

10-15"+

14-20"

The larger the pump you use, the sooner the vacuum will be generated, and the quicker you will reach the limit of a vacuum control valve.

The larger the pump, the more horsepower required to turn it. For example, a VP103 Pro or VP104 Super Pro vacuum pump may not generate a horsepower gain on a small, naturally aspirated engine with standard rings that inherently will not create much "blow by".

Tech Information

Filling up your breather tank with oil?

A common problem is pulling too much oil from the valve covers, much less often too little. The too much oil problem is usually due to the location of the inlet on the valve cover to the vacuum pump. This happens more so with vacuum pumps that pump more air, or have more air flow. Generally, the inlet should be on the front face of the valve cover to avoid over pulling of oil. When the pump inlet is in the top of the valve cover, it should be in the front, should not be over a rocker arm, works best with a stud girdle (as the oil from the valve train does not have direct access to the inlet). It is better to use a “pan evac” breather in this case as the inlet hole is larger (which reduces the air velocity coming out of the engine). If you do not have a stud girdle you may need to baffle the inlet with or without a Pan Evac breather (the baffle must be oriented properly to reduce oil flow out of the valve cover). Engines that are set up with the vacuum control valve on the opposite valve cover will tend to pull more oil IF the engine is set up with a high air flow vacuum pump and the valve is set at a relatively low vacuum level. This occurs because the total air flow going out of the motor is higher than would occur with a higher vacuum level, or with a smaller vacuum pump. The solution to this particular problem is generally to move the vacuum control valve to be in line with the pump. This can be done by relocating our VCV102 to our VCB100 (pan evac breather which was designed to allow the VCV to be installed in it, you need to drill and tap the top) or to our VCV102A/B (which is a billet piece that goes in the top or front face of the valve cover and has been designed to have our VCV102 installed in it). Of course inlet location, etc. is still of importance.  Another tip is to put some Scotch Brite in the baffle or panevac breather if still a problem. 

We have noticed that pulling alot of oil is also related to top oiling of the valve train. Mopar B1 heads and Ford “Yates” heads set up for road racing apparently have excessive top oiling. Remember, all that oil is splashing around and the pump will Suck up anything that passes the inlet hole if the air velocity is high enough passing out that inlet hole.

Lastly, the problem could be an inadequate vacuum pump coupled with an engine with alot of blow by. If the pump is overpowered by the blow by the pan pressure will build up to the point where alot of oil will be blown out . Inadequate can mean too small a pump , a failed pump, or an engine with really excessive blow by, which no vacuum pump will fix.

How-To Tips and Tricks

Coming soon a how-to for the C5 Corvette.

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